• Re: Speakers pop adjusting volume

    From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to alt.comp.os.windows-11 on Fri Oct 9 18:01:22 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.comp.os.windows-11

    On 9/11/2026 1:42 PM, sticks wrote:
    On 9/10/2026 10:10 AM, Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/10/2026 8:44 AM, sticks wrote:

    Are you suggesting adding a dedicated sound board might fix the
    problem somehow?
    I'm a little leery about adding much to this machine mainly because
    of the power supply.
    It's only 280 watts, but can be upgraded.

    A sound chip is one to two watts or so.

    I don't know if that would show in an advert or not, power consumption.

    I do see a heatsink on one audio card, but that is the "digital
    mutilation chip"
    which is a DSP and that runs a bit warm. Chips without heatsinks can
    run at up
    to two watts by themselves.

    Adding a sound card is a great idea and would eliminate this well known Realtek popping issue.  My power supply is only 280 watts, but a rough estimate shows I'm only pulling tops at 165 watts giving me over 100
    watts to play with.

    I ordered a Kill a Watt meter to be sure.  I also need to check my other
    HP that does have extra stuff inside.  Once I know for sure I got enough wattage headroom, I'll start considering the sound card if windows
    updates change things other than the driver that can easily be replaced.

    Thanks, Paul!

    I think I have finally solved this whole issue with Realtek and the
    popping speakers problem, so I figured I'd give the details in case
    anyone else has the problem.

    First, I did get the Kill A Watt meter (P4400.01 model) to see if I had
    enough power to add a sound card, and was quite surprised at just how
    little power this box draws with the Ultra processor.
    Just running with normal background stuff and having mail and a browser
    open it only draws about 20-25 watts
    Running Silver Bench (https://silver.urih.com/) and the extreme stress
    test, and at the same time running WebGl aquarium (https://webglsamples.org/aquarium/aquarium.html) with 30,000 fish it
    draws around 92 watts when on the fish page, going to the silver bench
    tab lowers the draw to 62 Watts.
    So pretty much maxed out this box only draws about 92 watts. Having a
    280 power supply I figure max usage would be 80% or 224 watts. This
    leaves me 132 watts available for powering something if I want to add to
    the box. Good so far.

    But while I was looking into sound card options, I came across a
    suggestion of adding a USB DAC Amp and External Sound Card. This
    completely takes the sound away from the motherboard audio and was
    supposed to eliminate the Realtek popping speaker problem. I decided to
    give it a go and bought this one for only $17: <https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-play-3>

    Finally, the popping is gone and never to return. It also gives the
    speakers more power so it does get louder. Super easy to install and
    use. Cheap. Solved the problem!
    --
    Science Doesn’t Support Darwin. Scientists Do

    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Andy Burns@usenet@andyburns.uk to alt.comp.os.windows-11 on Sat Oct 10 09:26:43 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.comp.os.windows-11

    sticks wrote:

    I came across a suggestion of adding a USB DAC Amp and External Sound Card.  This completely takes the sound away from the motherboard audio
    and was supposed to eliminate the Realtek popping speaker problem.  I decided to give it a go and bought this one for only $17: <https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-play-3>

    Finally, the popping is gone and never to return.  It also gives the speakers more power so it does get louder.  Super easy to install and use.  Cheap.  Solved the problem!

    I bought a cheapish USB DAC a couple of years ago, as the motherboard
    audio was picking up all the chirps, pops and whines from within the
    computer, it worked ... I no longer use that DAC (wonder where it is?)
    because I ended-up buying a USB "audio interface" basically a two stereo
    DACs and ADCs and a pre-amp with mixer and headphone output all in a
    neat little box.
    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From sticks@wolverine01@charter.net to alt.comp.os.windows-11 on Sat Oct 10 09:24:58 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.comp.os.windows-11

    On 10/10/2026 3:26 AM, Andy Burns wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    I came across a suggestion of adding a USB DAC Amp and External Sound
    Card.  This completely takes the sound away from the motherboard audio
    and was supposed to eliminate the Realtek popping speaker problem.  I
    decided to give it a go and bought this one for only $17:
    <https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-play-3>

    Finally, the popping is gone and never to return.  It also gives the
    speakers more power so it does get louder.  Super easy to install and
    use.  Cheap.  Solved the problem!

    I bought a cheapish USB DAC a couple of years ago, as the motherboard
    audio was picking up all the chirps, pops and whines from within the computer, it worked ... I no longer use that DAC (wonder where it is?) because I ended-up buying a USB "audio interface" basically a two stereo DACs and ADCs and a pre-amp with mixer and headphone output all in a
    neat little box.

    Glad you also found a working solution. It surprised me that other than
    you I've not heard other complaints here on either the popping I got or
    the also common box noises you experienced with using on-board
    motherboard sound. It drove me crazy and I don't know how you could
    continue with it happening.
    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Java Jive@java@evij.com.invalid to alt.comp.os.windows-11 on Sat Oct 10 15:38:57 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.comp.os.windows-11

    On 2026-10-10 09:26, Andy Burns wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    I came across a suggestion of adding a USB DAC Amp and External Sound
    Card.  This completely takes the sound away from the motherboard audio
    and was supposed to eliminate the Realtek popping speaker problem.  I
    decided to give it a go and bought this one for only $17:
    <https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-play-3>

    Finally, the popping is gone and never to return.  It also gives the
    speakers more power so it does get louder.  Super easy to install and
    use.  Cheap.  Solved the problem!

    I bought a cheapish USB DAC a couple of years ago, as the motherboard
    audio was picking up all the chirps, pops and whines from within the computer, it worked ... I no longer use that DAC (wonder where it is?) because I ended-up buying a USB "audio interface" basically a two stereo DACs and ADCs and a pre-amp with mixer and headphone output all in a
    neat little box.

    Similarly, I use a Terratec USB Audio soundcard (actually, an earlier
    model than this) ...

    <https://www.terratec.de/details.php?artnr=78251&lang=en>

    ... to connect my principle PC's audio output to my HiFi. It means I
    can hear everything through a reasonably good Midi stereo, particularly important for music. My initial reason for doing this was that the
    stereo is the other side of the room from my PC, and I didn't have a
    long enough stereo lead, but did have a long enough USB cable, but
    actually I wouldn't change it now for other reasons, because it works so
    well.

    Trouble is, now that I have my new TV, I need a convenient way of
    switching the stereo's output between the PC and the TV, and I can't
    think of a good way of doing that, although TBH I haven't yet given it
    enough thought.
    --

    Fake news kills!

    I may be contacted via the contact address given on my website: www.macfh.co.uk

    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2
  • From Paul@nospam@needed.invalid to alt.comp.os.windows-11 on Sat Oct 10 12:37:42 2026
    From Newsgroup: alt.comp.os.windows-11

    On Sat, 10/10/2026 10:24 AM, sticks wrote:
    On 10/10/2026 3:26 AM, Andy Burns wrote:
    sticks wrote:

    I came across a suggestion of adding a USB DAC Amp and External Sound Card.  This completely takes the sound away from the motherboard audio and was supposed to eliminate the Realtek popping speaker problem.  I decided to give it a go and bought this one for only $17:
    <https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-play-3>

    Finally, the popping is gone and never to return.  It also gives the speakers more power so it does get louder.  Super easy to install and use.  Cheap.  Solved the problem!

    I bought a cheapish USB DAC a couple of years ago, as the motherboard audio was picking up all the chirps, pops and whines from within the computer, it worked ... I no longer use that DAC (wonder where it is?) because I ended-up buying a USB "audio interface" basically a two stereo DACs and ADCs and a pre-amp with mixer and headphone output all in a neat little box.

    Glad you also found a working solution.  It surprised me that other than you I've not heard other complaints here on either the popping I got or the also common box noises you experienced with using on-board motherboard sound.  It drove me crazy and I don't know how you could continue with it happening.

    When you're picking up "mouse noises" on a motherboard, that's
    a layout issue for the analog circuitry of the HDAudio sound chip.

    It was "cured" to some extent, by placing a "moat" around the analog island. This can be done with via-stitching to the ground plan. Sometimes
    a graphic is applied to the silk screen, to highlight the design has
    a moat.

    At one time, motherboards seemed to be designed, without
    regard to checking SNR on the audio. Boards go through
    three design cycles, and a motherboard is "released" on
    the 3rd cycle and is supposed to be "modification wire free".
    Any mods discovered in the 2nd cycle, are supposed to be put
    into the 3rd and final layout cycle.

    While a number of motherboard subsystems can be "class-designed
    by an expert" and then given to each motherboard designer as
    a finished good (VCore) in a sense, the audio performance is not guaranteed when you use an old audio design. The electrical connections to the
    island can incite noise problems, and these really need to be
    checked and dealt with before the third cycle.

    In addition to using a moat, analog designs can also use
    a "metal can" and on a plug in PCI card, this could buy
    you an extra 10dB or so on noise floor. That's how a
    Sound Blaster noise can be -113dBm while a more cheesy
    sound circuit (pretty well no precautions at all),
    might be -70 to -80 or so. With a -113 number, you can
    listen to classical music, and on quiet passages, not
    have to worry about computer digital noise overriding
    the concert hall noise figure.

    It's because the sound chip runs off 0V and +5V, that
    there has to be a potential for a "pop" at startup.
    If the sound chip was bipolar powered (+5V and -5V),
    then the center of the range is 0V. And that would not
    pop at startup. Otherwise, you have to "leak out"
    the transition to 2.5V (DC resting point), and as long
    as the edge rate is slow enough, the speaker cone will
    follow it.

    Paul
    --- Synchronet 3.21d-Linux NewsLink 1.2